Bombay Dreams

The first thing that sets Moti Mahal apart from its London competitors is its attention to aesthetics; gone are the heavy fabrics and thick, embossed wallpapers that feature in most Indian restaurants, and in its place is dcor that is smart and sexy, with crisp white linen tables, sumptuous cream leather seats and glitzy chandeliers overhead. Hoping to lure white-collared workers and their designer-clad ladies through its glass doors, Moti Mahal seriously ups the stakes when it comes to getting a top-notch Tandoori in the city.

Ushered downstairs to our seats, we were immediately served up lipsmackingly good cocktails while we were left to peruse our menus. A potent mix of fresh fruit and alcohol, we were surprised we could walk straight when we left three hours later. As you'd expect from a posh Indian, the menu steers clear of regular Indian combos and opts instead for dishes that are more experimental and significantly wordier. For starter, we chose the Murghi Nazakat, a small but perfectly-formed dish made up of grilled chicken with mint and basil, mustard seed and grape chutney. The meat itself was melt-in-the-mouth, with the mint and basil complimenting the tender texture of the meat perfectly. While the two sauces on either side of the chicken made for perfect symmetry, the mustard seed wouldn't have been missed, however. As for the presentation? Faultless, with the chicken set on an oversized white plate that somehow shrank the food and didn't make us feel like greedy pigs by indulging in two courses. Other adventurous starters included a rabbit kebab and seared scallops, while an obligatory selection platter of Tandoori chicken, lamb and prawn was available for the less adventurous.

Next up was our main course, Allepy Konch Roast, made up of roasted jumbo prawns and set in a chickpea and mussel broth with ginger and curry leaf. The dish was like a spice-storm in a bowl, with the clashing flavours somehow working in its favour. The only complaint to be made, if any, was that the prawns weren't peeled. While that's just about acceptable in a sauce-free appetiser, when the prawns are covered with curry it can get a little messy. Diners, especially white-cuffed ones, don't want to be messing about with wet prawns while they're trying to impress their dates. As we're never sure just how big portions will be in restaurants that offer 'creative cuisine', we also ordered a couple of meal accompaniments, including Gobhi Palak (stir-fried cauliflower with baby spinach and peanuts) and a selection plate of Nann breads. Strangely enough, although we ate for Britain, we didn't have that usual bloated feeling you get after a curry. In fact, we felt light and healthy; not the usual weight of post-curry guilt.

A couple of after-dinner vodka and tonics later, Gunpowder stumbled up the stairs and out into the cold. Fortunately, however, our bellies had been warmed by the delicious flavours we had just experienced, our mouths still tingling with spice. While the experimental nature of Moti Mahal may not be for everyone (let's face it, sometimes you just want a Chicken Tikka Masala), it does enable you to to enjoy Britain's much-loved cuisine in more sumptuous surroundings, with the same quality food, and service, you'd expect of an upscale European establishment.

Nick Clarke, http://www.gunpowder-magazine.com

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